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The kitchen looks calm and collected at all times – which it needs to be really if people are going to sit directly on it.

Downstairs is a speakeasy-type bar and private dining room.

Despite its rather outlandish name, you’d easily walk past it as the black lettering of the sign is cloaked by the evening light and it fails to stand out from the rest of the black sign.

The mark two is slightly more polished than its predecessor in east London.

The interior is pared down and lacks enough soft furnishings for any pleasant acoustics, where instead of muted conversation it’s shouty and at first feels a little stiff until more people soften it up.

Known for the touch of Asian woven into his modern British food, Handling has moved away slightly from this, and now there’s only a slight hint of Asian flavours in a handful of dishes.

Now the frog has leaped further west to Covent Garden.

From the plonk flight, none was more surprising than the Japanese dessert wine – a light pink fruity number that’s reminiscent of Amaretto.

There’s an incredible number of staff on the floor and still the chefs serves most of the dishes, adding a sauce at the last minute or explaining a dish, which makes me wonder how they have time and how the kitchen is able to remain so calm and quiet.

And how can we blame them, it’s entertainment for us and a new beginning for a former J Bloggs.

Some turn into household names in a culinary rag-to-riches story. As with TV talent contests, it’s often the runner-ups that end up doing best.

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